Smoke over the San Juans

A Diamond - Rails to Ouray

by James Burke

One hundred and fifteen years ago the narrow gauge rails of the Denver & Rio Grande were reaching up the Uncompahgre River Valley and the Beaumont Hotel was rising from its foundation. Ouray was about to come into full bloom. This was to the distress of Solid Muldoon Editor Dave Day, who had hoped to terminate the rails at his “Ramona,” a town site four miles north, where a single mansion still stands.

But Ouray won the day, and appropriately so for the Chief. There were grand years following 1887, with wealth pouring from the mines of the mountains and the wealthy riding the pigmy pullmans from Denver. Men such as Otto Meers and David Moffit shadowed the doorways of nearly every business. And Meer’s superintendent, Robert Ridgway, built the incredible Rio Grande Southern Railroad to Telluride and Rico from his town downvalley.

The Silver Crisis of 1893 was Ouray’s first critical test. But the tough little town survived to turn the century with bricks replacing boards, and brass bands playing. The scenic treasures of the San Juans captured a role in the developing drama of Ouray’s renowned riches, as tourists routinely rode the narrow gauge cars from the La Vita to the Beaumont to the Straiter and the Grand Imperial.

Hard times came for an extended stay after World War I. The Great Depression only deepened existing condition. World War II’s demand for metals offered some reprieve. But the 1950s saw the Uncompahgre’s floundering again. Before it finally closed its doors, the Beaumont was painted pink, in a futile attempt to blend it with the times. In 1953, the narrow gauge rails were removed, and a disquieting quiet settled over Ouray.

For 40 years, the apprehension lingered. In passing the abandoned Beaumont, one hesitated to speculate upon the grand old lady’s fate. Were there people who knew what had happened here? And cared?

The resurrection began subtly, not totally reassuring, in consideration of surrounding cases of disrespect. But the people of Ouray know how to polish a diamond, and in the face of alien forces, they have prevailed. In every corner of the garden, Ouray is blooming again.

And center stage, as in 1887, is the Beaumont.

As I quote my old Ute friend, elsewhere herein, “It is good."

James Burke, railroad historian and photographer is the associate publisher of the "San Juan Silver Stage." His railroad photographs and writings have appeared in a variety of publications throughout the United States.