by Kathryn Retzler

Bluff,  Utah [Summer 2001]

Modern day Bluff is a treat. Residents and business owners have combined forces to create an atmosphere that offers a relaxing respite from the hustle of big city life. It's a place to tune out and settle in for a spell beneath a shady cottonwood near the river, or enjoy a leisurely hike or a river trip through the canyons.

There are several places to stay, all with genial hosts who love the history of the town and are ready to share it. Dining opportunities abound, too, with chances to kick back at a cafe, enjoy a cowboy-style dinner or a gourmet meal. Gift shops and galleries, combined with a tour of the old homes make for an interesting day in town. Knowledgeable tour guides can help you plan a day or a week, taking in the sites near Bluff and nearby Monument Valley.

When we visited, we stayed at the Desert Rose. Owner Cindy Tumeh provided us with a packet of information about the area.  At Far Out Expeditions, Marsha Hadenfeldt filled us in on area archaeology and geology, as did the folks at Wild Rivers, who also took us on a guided day trip down the San Juan.  We took most of our meals at the Twin Rocks Cafe, sitting on the deck and enjoying the view, then splurged one night at the Cottonwood Steakhouse dining out with our art cover artist Margaret LaBounty and her husband.

For adventures, besides the river trip, we visited the Sand island Petroglyphs (which you can literally drive to), hiked around in the canyons a bit and hunted up a 16-room ruin accessible by a swinging bridge across the San Juan. The historic district, with all the wonderful old houses and their history took up another day. At Twin Rocks Trading, owners Barry and Steve Simpson, and Steve’s wife Georgiana were all knowledgeable and friendly and especially in helping us put together our trading post section. The week ended way to soon. We've already booked a fall trip. Come and join us! Bluff is fun.