by Kathryn Retzler

Southwest Colorado [2005]

What and why? Those are the questions I asked John and Sandi Ivory, owners of Ivory’s Trading Co. & Gallery in Ouray. “What sells and why do people want to buy it?” Ivory’s displays an outstanding collection of Indian jewelry, authentic Navajo rugs, pottery, baskets and western arts, including work by our cover artist Tim Washburn. John, a longtime cow man (ranching and rodeo—he’s the real deal), and his Texas-born wife Sandi are avid collectors of western and Native American art. When they closed down their popular restaurant, the Pinion, and reopened the next year as Ivory’s, at 737 Main, their inventory reflected their love of the genre. 

Now, three years later, that inventory rivals anything you’d find in Sedona or Santa Fe. John is an expert on and a lover of Navajo rugs, and the gallery carries contemporary and antique weavings, many with interesting provenance. Sandi loves jewelry, and both she and John have a thorough knowledge of the art and the artists who create it. “We have have a great time buying for our store,” Sandi said. “We’ve always been collectors. The only difference is now we just can’t keep it all for ourselves anymore.” And in answer to my earlier question, John replies: “People want quality, the unusual, the unique. That’s what they come in here for; that’s what they buy. Not just collectors, but any one who wants to own a piece of Native American art.” Although they sell a fair share of rugs,  bronzes, western art and other items, jewelry is definitely the Ivory’s biggest seller. They offer everything from old pawn to contemporary, from moderately priced to one-of-a-kind custom pieces, with jewelry cases graced by well-known names like  Tommy Jackson, Ben Nighthorse, Ray Tracy and Rocki Gorman. 

Jewelry is also the what and why in Silverton, which boasts five great spots to find it: Tanner Gallery,  Storyteller Store and Ortega’s three trading posts. All are within two blocks on Greene Street. Each carries many of the same upscale names you’ll find in the big cities, but Silverton, at 9,300 feet, boasts definitely down-to-earth prices. Like the towns to the north and south of it, this tiny mountain village—year round residents are less than 500—was once dependent on mining for its existence. Now it is a gold mine for savvy summer visitors seeking cooler vistas and affordable, high-quality products. 

Store owners buy direct from the Native American artisans. Judy Gillespie, who currently manages Tanner Gallery (owned and supplied by fourth generation trader Ellis Tanner, of Gallup, NM) has been trading in Native American arts for more than twenty-five years. 

“Our customers come back year after year,” she says.

“They’re looking for a special piece of jewelry, or maybe wanting to add to an already fine collection.” Dave and Margaret Romero of Storyteller’s second that. “We get a lot of repeat buyers,” Dave said. “We also sell, mostly smaller gift items, to passengers on the (daily narrow gauge) trains that come up from Durango May through October. But it’s the people who drive into town to shop that support the Indian stores.” Dave speaks from experience; he has a similar shop in Carefree, Ariz., which also caters to repeat customers. “They’re almost like family,” adds Debra Ortega, a fourth generation trader, of their drive-in visitors. “They’re very familiar faces. Sometimes I buy things just knowing these people will come up in the summer and I’ll have just the right thing for them.” Debra grew up “on the res” and learned trading at the knee of her father and uncles. 

The Ortega name is a familiar sight along the interstates in Arizona and New Mexico. The Ortegas also have shops in Santa Fe and Scottsdale, but, for the best bargains, a drive to Silverton is a definite must. 

Just an hour’s drive south is Durango. The town, named after a sister city in old Mexico, has not yet buried its western flavor under creeping urbanity. (But it’s trying mighty hard to disguise itself as Denver west or Phoenix north as it embraces the exodus from those cities.) Luckily, you can still find the sights, smells and sounds (some of all three compliments of Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, still functioning much as it was a century ago) of Durango’s past. Vintage photos show tepees on the edge of town and blanketed Navajo and Ute trading their handicrafts with local business owners. Today, several stores on Main carry a sizable inventory of Indian arts and crafts. The Ortegas have two stores there owned by Debra’s mother and her son and his wife. The elegant Rain Dance Gallery, 945 Main, has an excellent selection of quality Indian jewelry and art and home decor items including fine furnishings. (The source of their custom buffalo furniture is the Scenic Mesa Ranch, near Hotchkiss—See the Silver Stage, Vol. 9, for the story on how it came to be there.) Just up the street, Lime Berry, 925 Main, specializes in folk art and affordable rugs. It’s a fun, colorful place to visit. A Shared Blanket, 736 Main Ave., may be tucked into a tiny space, but owner Donna Frank’s little shop has a big inventory with an eclectic selection of Indian jewelry and art, including pieces from old Mexico and South America. 

When it comes to rugs, at least in the San Juan towns, the granddaddy of them all is Toh-Atin, 145 W. 9th Street. Owner Jackson Clark is a fourth generation Durangoan and a lifetime Indian trader. He and his family, who also publish fine art prints, have been trading in fine, authentic Navajo rugs and other Native American crafts since 1957. Clients come from all over the world, many of them repeat buyers.

“We’re known for our rugs,” Jackson said, “but buyers come to us for jewelry, pottery, baskets and bronzes, too.” 

A block up ninth, at the intersection with Main, is Sorrel Sky, gallery of fine western art and Native American jewelry. Owner Shanan Campbell Wells, daughter of jewelry artist and former U.S. Senator Ben Nighthorse, grew up on the show circuit, then managed Toh-Atin for the Jackson family for eight years before founding her own gallery three years ago. She is a commissioner on the Department of Interiors Indian Arts and Crafts Board, charged with protecting and promoting authenticity in Indian arts and crafts. Shanan also served as advisor on the Nighthorse Jewelry Exhibit at the Smithsonian Museum of the American Indian. Having been on all sides of the gallery/buyer equation, from show circuit through management to face-to-face sales, Shanan knows what buyers want.  “They are looking for quality and an assurance of authenticity. They are depending on you and your reputation to see that they get it.” With her lifelong background in the genre, Shanan is uniquely qualified to see that they do.

SJPG Photos

Jewelry shown from Ivory Trading Co. & Gallery, Ouray

1. Inlay by Ben Nighthorse

2. Tanner Gallery, Silverton

3. Green gaspeite beads and cross by Rocki Gorman

4. Ivory’s Trading Co. & Gallery, Ouray

5. Ortega’s Old Town Store, Silverton