Cowgirls & Indians Handcrafted Jewelry

DISCREET DAYTIME DIAMONDS, a delicate gold chain, or maybe a collar of emeralds adorning a ball gown—these all have a time and place. Like, maybe where tossing tea in the harbor harbored a revolution.

But here in the land of towering mountains and vast blue sky, it’s definitely OK to go large! To layer. To add a couple more pieces and know you can get away with it, whether you are dressed down in jeans or over the top in a killer cocktail dress.

Whenever, wherever, and however you wear it, western jewelry is just so much fun! And, it’s so much a part of our geologic and cultural western heritage. After all, it’s the down-to-earth part of where we live: rock and metal. You can’t get much more basic than that.

When it comes to big, nobody does big better than Navajo artist Tommy Jackson. Well known for his use of stunning stones

coupled with intricate silverwork, Tommy’s specialty, as he puts it, is “good old American turquoise, the kind where the stone speaks for itself.” His newest pieces feature standbys like Bisbee, Royston, #8 Spiderweb and most recently, dark and light green turquoise from the Broken Arrow mine in Nevada. Teamed up with fellow Navajo silversmith, Aaron Anderson, whose specialty is tuffa silver casting, Tommy’s work can be found locally at Ivory’s Trading Company & Gallery, Ouray, Storyteller, Silverton, and
A Shared Blanket, Durango.

Also shown at Ivory’s and also working big—in concept more than single stone size, is designer, Rocki Gorman. Combining multiple hues of coral, turquoise, lapis, and other colored stones, Rocki’s style is characterized by generously sized hearts, crosses, and other shapes fashioned into big-bezeled pendants paved with the tiny colorful stones and hung from thick ropes of complimentary stone.

Also shown at Ivory’s and also working big—in concept more than single stone size, is designer, Rocki Gorman. Combining multiple hues of coral, turquoise, lapis, and other colored stones, Rocki’s style is characterized by generously sized hearts, crosses, and other shapes fashioned into big-bezeled pendants paved with the tiny colorful stones and hung from thick ropes of complimentary stone.

While Native American jewelry, especially designs in turquoise and silver, is generally characteristic of the American Southwest look, it isn’t the only style in the retail showcase...or the jeweler’s bench. Going “western” doesn’t necessarily mean going with Indian jewelry.

Melanie Kline and her son Josh Kline, Ouray Silversmiths, have created a distinctive style of the old west in material and unique design. Calling it the “sassy cowgirl look,” they use clever combinations that are all their own. Pearls and bullets for earrings. A tangle of silver aspen leaves holding a piece of petrified wood pendant laced with opal. Copper sandwiched in silver and constructed to let the “leathery-looking” burnished metal shine through on a wrist cuff.

A silver ring or bracelet fabricated to look like a tiny corral, complete with horses, fences, and miniscule gold ropes. Trophy buckles, wrist cuffs, earrings and earring jackets, necklaces, money clips—all of it with the distinctive style of the old west in material and unique design without the “Native American” look so characteristic of the jewelry of the American Southwest. (Melanie’s granddad was an Orthodox cowboy from Thornton, Colo. who mastered the impossible feat of keeping kosher on the range!)

Melanie is world-renowned for her nearly-priceless Judaica. She’s made designs for heads of state, so designing for Colorado cowgirls is a relief and a treat.

Fine, fun, and fabulous—that’s what you’ll find at Sorrel Sky of Durango. Gallery owner Shanan Campbell, the daughter of renowned Indian artist (and legendary American statesman) Ben Nighthorse Campbell, grew up with traditional and contemporary western art and jewelry. He began making jewelry when he was twelve. Some of Shanan’s earliest memories are doing the show circuit with her father. That experience paid off. Shanan knows how to pick the best in contemporary western and Native American design. From the front door to the “viewing room” at the back, it’s one, big “Wow!” The glass cases in front glisten with with eye-popping jewelry. Walls and rooms throughout the gallery display some of the best original western art found anywhere.

The work of Artie Yellowhorse (worn by Shanan and pictured left) is typified by her intricate hand-made silver beads and contemporary design. For Artie, whose children, grandchildren, nieces, and nephews are all involved, jewelry design is a family affair and she’s proud of keeping the tradition alive. Kai Gallagher, a local Durango artist working in concert with a Navajo silversmith, likes to combine unusual stones and cuts with silver in contemporary and traditional designs. An apt description of her work is: “Exuberant—joy seeps from every piece!”

As an artist, Ben Nighthorse Campbell stands alone. “When someone buys his jewelry, they are participating in a creative transfer,” explains his daughter Shanan. “It’s not just a sale. My father puts the best of everything into his j

ewelry. I feel like his work is a kind of diary of his life.” Campbell, a former U.S. Senator, has made bolo ties for all of the living presidents. He is known for his inlay work, especially the “patriotic” pieces done in red, white, and blue (usually turquoise, coral, and white mother of pearl or opal).

Campbell’s work is also at Ivory’s Trading Company & Gallery, Ouray. Collectors themselves, owners Sandi and John Ivory make it a point to carry an outstanding inventory of fine contemporary and traditional Native American jewelry. Here you will find many custom pieces by top designers such as Tommy Jackson, Kee Joe Benally, Rocki Gorman, and B.G. Mudd, as well as more affordable lines. The Ivory’s gallery has a well-earned reputation for their jewelry and fine Navajo rugs, and the gallery carries an impressive selection. (Related story.)

Another treasure trove is Sunrise Southwest in Ridgway. Suzanne and Larry Ulrich carry an outstanding collection of Native American jewelry including Navajo, Zuni, and Santo Domino. (Related story.)

Between Ouray and Durango, tucked high into the San Juans, little Silverton is a big find in Indian jewelry. Fourth generation trader Debra Ortega’s two stores offer an incredible selection of Native American jewelry including work by Navajo artists Michael and Michelle Perry and Mary and Evertt Teller, and Zuni artists Nancy and Dennis Edaake and Effie Calavaza.

Across the street, Storyteller Indian Store carries a wonderful selection of Indian jewelry including work by Tommy Jackson (pictured right) and local artist Little Elk. (Storyteller’s Margaret Romero is wearing his necklace, pictured above right.)

So, if you live in the San Juans, or are merely visiting here, now is a great time to dude yourself out in western garb and—Yes!—and go shopping for some of this fun and fabulous jewelry!