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PAGOSA
SPRINGS, COLORADO
Story
by Kathryn
Retzler and Katherine Cruise
Exclusive for San Juan Silver Stage PAGOSA SPRINGS boasts
one of the world’s largest and deepest mineral hot springs. The name of
the town comes from “Pa-goh-sah,” a Ute Indian word meaning “healing
waters.”
In the 1870s, the Ute and Navajo Indians even fought a duel to
determine
which tribe would control access to the healthful waters. The source of
the "Mother Springs," as locals call it, is the Pagosa Aquafor. The
springs themselves date back more than a million years, the result of
the same volcanic activity which formed the San Juan Mountains. And, no
one is really certain how deep it is! Hot springs aren't the only ammenity here. There’s
always something happening in Pagosa Springs. In
addition to
many activities in the town proper, Pagosa Springs also serves as a
dramatic
gateway to the Weminuche Wilderness, which has a multitude of hiking
trails
among the mountain forests. Hot Springs Mmmmmm—the
springs have been, for centuries, Pagosa's most popular attraction.
Native
Americans used them, cowboys soaked their tired horses feet in them,
Civil
War Veterans came there for "the cure" as did many others in the late
1800s
and 1900s. Local residents swear by them and swear they go into
withdrawal
when away from their daily soak too long. Today, there are two choices.
At The Springs Resort,
there
are eighteen individual soaking pools of naturally hot, therapeutic
mineral
water, terraced along the banks of the beautiful San Juan River. Across
Hot Springs Boulevard at The
Spa, you
can enjoy the large swimming pool, find a quiet respite in
the indoor hot baths, available for both men and women, or soak in the
outdoor coed hot tub nestled in a serene and secluded setting. Massage
is available onsite or at nearby facilities to complete the relaxing
hot
springs experience. Nearby Wolf
Creek Ski Area, with western
Colorado's biggest winter snow base,
draws
skiers of all skills and interests. Warm-weather fans enjoy taking to
the
links on two fine courses. Pagosa also offers outstanding hiking,
biking
and fishing opportunities. For those who prefer a car trip to a hike,
try
a drive south into New Mexico and explore some of the old Spanish
villages.
If riding the rails suits your fancy, the Cumbres
& Toltec Scenic Railroad is only fifty miles
to the south
(about
a two hour drive). Check first, though, because the railroad runs
seasonally. Dining and lodging are also available in Chama, NM the
railroad's hometown. (Neither are available in Antonito, the Colorado
end of the line.)Events and Activities Seasonal
events include the Red Ryder Roundup Rodeo and the Archuleta County
Fair
in July, the Four Corners Folk
Festival
in August, and the Colorfest Hot-Air Balloon Rally in September. Be
sure
to visit to the family-friendly Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park, five
miles
south of town on U.S. Hwy 84. The best time to come is feeding time, 4
p.m. in summer or 2 p.m. in winter. The many art galleries, fine
shopping,
delicious dining and friendly people make visiting here a pleasure any
time of year. For current calendar of events, check the Pagosa Springs
Chamber Event
Calendar.Pagosa takes its name
from
its curative waters and much of its history from those who used them.
After
the arrival of the white man in the mid 1800s, the area was timbered
for
many years. Logging operations ran side by side with big cattle
ranches,
for the meadows and pasturelands nearby are perfect for raising cattle.
Much of the old ranching history has been preserved by Fred Harman Jr.
at his Fred Harman Museum
at the west end of town. Harman's family records show that before the
railroad
came, it took two or more days for the old ranchers to come into
town for supplies. The San Juan Historical Museum
features exhibits of early pioneer living (1890s to early 1900s), when
families supported themselves through ranching, farming, and logging.
To learn more about those who lived here before the white men arrived,
visit the Chimney Rock Archeological Area,
which offers guided educational tours, full moon programs, and Native
American festivals.
Cultural Opportunities Pagosa is home to the Square Top Repertory Theatre, which
features a full summer season of live theatre for the whole family.
Check their web site for the current season's production
schedule. If you want to venture a little farther, following
paths frequented by miners and loggers of days gone by, the Creede Repertory Theatre is just
a short, scenic one-hour drive away. USA Today named the award-winning
Creede Repertory Theatre as one of "10 great places to see the lights
way off Broadway." Pagosa doesn't lack for visual arts either,
and boasts an active arts
associaton and numerous galleries. Shy Rabbit Contemporary Arts,
vowing to "continue the advancement of contemporary art in the Four
Corners region," offers on-going exhibits and art education in its
4,000-square foot facility. Wild
Spirit Gallery, downtown Pagosa, frequently features artists
covered by the San Juan Silver Stage and our Colorado
Collector's Guide.
How
to get
there Pagosa Springs is
located
on Highway 160, approximately 65 miles east of Durango, which provides
air
and car rental service to the area. For additional information contact
the Pagosa Springs
Chamber
of Commerce, 800-252-2204. (Google
Map)
Photos: Top, The Springs Resort in winter, by Kathryn Retzler; Center, Wolf Creek Ski Area, Courtesy Wolf Creek; Bottom, Courtesy Rocky Mountain Wildlife Park.
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