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Silverton, Colorado

© Kathryn Retzler for San Juan Publishing Group, Inc.
[all rights reserved]

THE SETTING is  spectacular, the town unique—it’s living history preserved in spirit, lifestyle and architecture. Silverton sits on the roof of the nation, one of the remnants of the American West. It is just 250 miles from Denver, but twice that by rail. Rails built by hand through the Rocky Mountains, an incredible feat accomplished against nearly impossible odds of rugged terrain and hard weather.

Today the town no longer connects to Denver by rail, but the tracks do head south to Durango, home of the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, like the town, one of the last great remnants of the American West. The train no longer carries supplies and workers to the mines that once sustained the community, but tourists, the new life blood of an old boom and bust town.

Hardrock mining founded Silverton, and kept it going for more than a century. Originally discovered by Baker and his group looking for silver and gold here in the mid 1800s, the town was first called Baker’s Park. It sits, a slightly sloped, flat meadow, in the bowl of an old volcanic caldera. Today the surrounding mountains top 14,000 feet, but eons ago, they poked their heads more than 30,000 feet into the brilliant blue sky. Baker and his group left, chased away by the Ute people for invading their native’s hunting grounds. But after the Civil War Baker returned, freshly fortified, equally determined. A town was soon founded, and after the Ute people moved from the area, following the signing of the Brunot Treaty, Silverton was established as a mining camp, and later, a town. The main  streets were named after early settlers: Greene, Reese, Snowden. A raucous Red Light district was established on the east side of Greene, then later, a block east on Notorious Blair Street.
 
Because the town was never the victim of a major fire, as so many mining camps were, the buildings have been preserved, many of them with original furnishings, fixtures, stamped tin ceilings and polished, mirrored back bars, intact. Because of its relative remoteness, Silverton has not (yet) suffered the fate of some of her neighbors and been developed to unaffordability,  yuppified to death with trendy chain shops, pricey cafes, and high dollar condos. It’s still a friendly place to live and visit.

Much remains as it was. The mines are closed, but many reminders of them are still visible and visitable, in the mountains and in the museum. The old bars and restaurants are still open for a drink or a meal. The ladies of the line are gone, but the bordellos are still there, spiffed up, winterized, and made into comfortable hotels, shops and restaurants. Natalia’s, pictured here, is one of Silverton's oldest establishments. Once it was Mattie’s Bordello and the Welcome Saloon, also pictured here.

All over Silverton, the pioneer spirit prevails, as descendants of the original families and determined newcomers welcome guests and proudly preserve their Town of Silverton. Come, join us for a visit of a very special place.



Editor's note: With only 30 frost-free days a year, and 14 growing days for the annual crops of horseradish and rhubarb, Silverton sees extreme temperatures. Winter lows range from below zero to 20 degrees. Summer highs can reach 70-80 degrees. The weather can change at any time, so always carry rain gear and extra clothing. And plenty of water and sunscreen. At this altitude (over 9,000 feet) dehydration and sunburn are a constant threat. Take plenty of film, too. The scenery is some of the most spectacular in the world! There is a shop in Old Town Square that provides one-hour photo service and many stores carry film and instant cameras. The biggest holiday of the year is 4th of July. Book well ahead if you plan a trip then.

For more information, visit the official Chamber of Commerce Website at www.silvertoncolorado.com or, email them at chamber@frontier.net


Photos: Silverton Town Hall, © Kathryn Retzler; Mattie's Boarding House and Welcome Saloon, courtesy Bill & Lucy Walko; Natalia's 1912 Restaurant, © Kathryn Retzler

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