Story by James Burke; Photos by Kathryn Retzler

Western Colorado
 

To someone who has known the San Juan Mountains for more than half a century, the term San Juan Skyway sounds like a plane’s approach to a local airport. In contrast, the route traveled is one filled with down-to-earth character and charm.

San Juans in Winter                    © Kathryn Retzler

The highly individualistic towns of the "Skyway" lead the road traveler through past and present, ghost towns and modern facilities. The road roughly follows that of the railroads, built over seemingly impossible terrain by men eager to find the riches hidden within these mountains.

Durango

The name was inspired, they say, from its similarity to Durango, Mexico. But, Durango, Colo., needs no other definition once you’ve seen it. The setting is classic southwestern America. 
 

Close crowding red and buff rocky bluffs backed by towering snowcapped peaks.  Roaring river almost surrounding its grand Victorian downtown, crowned by the grand old Strater Hotel.

Strater Hotel, Durango, Colo.                    © Kathryn Retzler

Standing on land once spanned by the Old Spanish Trail, Durango became the Gateway to the San Juan Mountains when narrow gauge rails founded the town. And more incredible than you would dare hope, the rails are still there. And the Iron Horse abounds in old Durango Town.

-- Nearby, powder skiing in Durango Mountain Resort (at Purgatory Mountain). Downtown, great shopping and one of the best holiday light displays on the western slope.

Silverton

The shining heart of the San Juan Mountains, where precious metals caused feverish madness in men more than a hundred years past. Locked in a lofty park by peaks above 12,000 feet, and only accessible through a constricted crevice called the Canyon of the River of Lost Souls, Silverton succored some 10,000 seekers of riches in its glory days before the First World War. Five hundred miles of slim gauge steel drew Pullman cars from Denver and Blair Street ladies left a legend Bourbon Street can’t beat. The summer trains bring crowds that strain the old town’s dignity, but winter’s quiet conjures contemplation of what Silverton once was.

--Visit the new community center at Kendall Mountain, with skiing, ice skating and a pleasant covered porch for enjoying the pristine winter views.

Ouray
 

Ouray County Courthouse, Ouray, Colo.                  © Kathryn Retzler

The peace-loving leader of the Ute Indians lent his name to the fledgling village at this beautiful location shortly before he died, and his people were driven away.The town has risen above the sadness of its beginnings, borne up by the awesome beauty of its setting.

Surrounded on three sides by towering peaks, the valley is graced by the sights and sounds of the cascading Uncompahgre waters. The thermal springs for which the natives named this place are now known far and away, around the world.

--Year round hot springs at the Ouray Hot Springs Pool. Showmobiling, Nordic skiing, Sled Dog Races and world-renowned ice festival in January.,

Ridgway

The old foundations of this town still remember the tread of Otto Mears, the pathfinder of the San Juans, and his omni-competent assistant, "Si" Ridgway. Grasping opportunities ignored by the Rio Grande Railroad, Meers staked out Ridgway’s streets in 1890. Ridgway was the northern terminal of his Rio Grande Southern-a legendary narrow gauge railroad, tying Telluride, Ophir, Rico and Dolores to the outside world. Though the last Iron Horse has long since departed from the edge of the Ridgway Park, Sneffels and Uncompahgre Peaks still look down and frown at the things Meers thought he could do. And he did.

--Orvis Hot Springs pool open year round. Nearby, guided "back country" tours include skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoeing and winter hiking.

Telluride

The fabled destination of 1890, high up above the sky in the San Juan Mountains, with glittering treasures of silver and gold, distinguished hostelries such as the Sheridan, and ladies and games of all odds and descriptions, the Iron Horse had come to Telluride by 1891, and all sorts of drummers and dealers drifted in. The lights were bright for many a night, but it only took some 30 years to bring the timbers down. Now, rigs have risen from the ruins again. Financial attraction is back on track. And the drummers and dealers are back. But however far the next escarpment, it can’t distract from one fact—the Telluride setting is so arresting, that man’s best efforts will be rendered trite.

--World-famous skiing, chic shops, galleries, restaurants and wintertime activities make this a Mecca for winter sports enthusiasts.

Rico

In Spanish, Rico means "rich." In the 1880’s, Rico meant remote. Four-hundred seventy miles from Denver on a narrow gauge passenger coach, then 30 miles over the mountain by stagecoach. But Rico was booming of gold and silver. In 1892, Rico had its own railroad, and cut stone buildings were replacing log shacks. In 1992, Rico was awakening from a 60-year sleep. The graves of many who died in the mines had been moved to provide for a new highway, rushing skiers to the slopes at Telluride’s Mountain Village. There are many ways to be rich...and to die.

--A short drive from Telluride to the north, Cortez to the south. Surprisingly lively is the Rico Theater which brings in national acts during the winter season.

Dolores

The Dolores River, "The river of Sorrows," rises on the southern slopes of Dolores and Wilson Peaks and flows through beautiful timbered valleys 40 miles southwest before bending back north. At this bend lies the town of Dolores. The river was named by the Spanish Fathers who passed this way in search of California, 200 years ago. The town was established by the Rio grande Southern Railroad, which passed this way 100 years ago. The railroad is gone, but the highway is still two lane. The buildings speak of days of old. There are no stoplights. There is no freeway. The people want none. They would like their railroad back. The Galloping Goose is spreading rumors that it may return.

--Nearby McPhee Reservoir offers great fishing. In town, a running "goose" by the rebuilt depot makes occasional excursions on the D&S NG RR and Chama Scenic Railroad. At the edge of town, the Anasazi Heritage Center, one of several outstanding museums in the area.

Cortez

Named for a man not famous among Native Americans, this old trading post stands beneath Sleeping Ute Mountain at the edge of the Ute Reservation not far from the Navajos and between Anasazi treasures at Hovenweep and atop Mesa Verde. The wide main street seems to sleep with colorful memories. To the north lie the sparkling Dolores waters in Lake McPhee. The road west, down McElmo creek leads back to Monument Valley. To the south stands towering Shiprock, sacred among the Navajo. Trimming the eastern horizon at 12,000 feet are the shining LaPlatas - southernmost scouts of the Silvery San Juans. Cortez is a fine place to rest, before venturing forth in any direction.

-- Just minutes away from World Heritage Park Mesa Verde and ancestral pueblos in Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico and Utah. Cortez is the center of "four corners" cultural activity, history and exhibits.

Mancos

Standing in the Mancos River Valley, below the snowy peaks of the La Platas and the last long shadows of Mesa Verde, Mancos holds the fragrant vestiges of an old west ranching and lumber town. Once graced by the narrow gauge Rio grande Southern, Mancos was the destination of many cattle drives and the mother lode for many loads of lumber for lumber-hungry mining towns on high. Now quiet has come to the mansions of Mancos, the once bustling business district, the distant barns, with the hope that wholesale land development can be held off. Time is stacked against it, but Mancos is standing fast.